Figgy's Patterns

scirocco top tutorial July 09 2012, 4 Comments

Hemoglobin Hummingbird.....what can I say other than her work is spot on impressive, she is genuine and kind and I wish we lived in the same state because I'd love to bake her a pie.   She was also one of our testers for this last round of patterns and we're so happy she was!  Most recently she put together a Scirocco top photo tutorial and we are grateful she is allowing us to share this with all of you!  Without further ado....

Have your pieces ready?

Instead of using chalk (it sometimes won't come out), press to mark stitching line.

Pressed stitching line

Sewn seam.  Using a template made with card stock cut to the width of my pleat.  Rounded corners help it to slide in. The template gives a uniform-width pleat when pressing.

Match up the pressed line and stitching line at the top and bottom and the cardstock will make sure the rest is straight and even.

Make sure to get your trim deep in there, and edgestitch very close to the edge. Alternatively, you can use wondertape instead of pins to hold in place.

It's the only edgestitching so for me it was worth it to switch to silver silk thread for this bit. My line wavered a bit at the bottom but mostly within the final half inch, which is the seam allowance, so I left it.

Bodice and Lining right sides together, raw edges aligned.  Approximately, in my case. I'm sure you're more precise about cutting and stitching.

Mirrored Side Panels

Flipped second piece

Right sides together pinned in place.

Oops, you should be two inches left free at the shoulders, not half an inch!

All sewn up!


Turn right side out.

I pressed the untrimmed seam allowances under and made sure they matched in width, about 2 inches.


Right sides together

Match the front & back to join together. The pin marks the important spot to match up.

Pinned together the side becomes a U shape.


Seam roll is very helpful here to press open the seams.

Completed side seams.

Pin the inner shoulder seams right sides together.


Press open the seams.

Pull the shoulder through the inside of the bodice to the bottom.

Pin the shoulder seam together.

Stitched and pressed.  I didn't have enough working room to use my iron but a good fingerpress worked fine.

Pull farther to match seams.

Just keep going, the same way you pulled it all through just before this.


Opposite side view.

Complete stitching line.  Just closing the gap, so to speak. You don't have tons of slack at the ends, it's ok. Just wiggle it under there. The wide walking foot was a bit in the way, switching to a regular foot would've helped but I was lazy.

Funky.  Bit like an elephant trunk, maybe it's just the grey fabric.

But pulled back out, looks good!




Side View.  As my friend Nicole says, neat and tidy, Heidi!



Isn't this a sharp finish?  A great technique to use if you want a professional finish without any hand-stitching.  :)

Thank you so much Sarvi for this wonderful photo tutorial!!!

Happy Sewing!