ayashe sew along; day two February 09 2012, 4 Comments
Welcome back to Day 2!
It is nice and bright this morning in Portland and perfect for sew along photos.
We left off yesterday with all of the pattern pieces cut, the upper collar interfaced and we gathered the front shoulders and back panel. I think we're ready, let's sew!
For a larger view please click on the photo.
Before sewing the center front seam it is best to measure the 1 1/4" seam allowance rather than hope for the best. This will ensure a nice straight line.
Sew the center front seam from the bottom hem up. Once you reach the slit marking do a back stitch and then adjust the stitch lenth to the longest length.
Press the seam open and fold the raw edge 1/4" under on both sides of the seam. The Ezy-Hem helper is a great way to measure this long seam so it will be nice and even. Press flat once more.
Top stitch along both folded edges. Top stitch again centered between the seam alowance and the stitch line. Now you may notice I am not perfectly centered between the two. Why? Honestly? I was being lazy. I decided that if I aligned the presser foot with the center line it would give me a nice straight line all the way down. You should measure between the two lines, chalk and topstitch.
Align the markings, distribute the gathers evenly and pin. Sew the seam.
Remove the gathers. I like to press the seam up on the wrong side and then press again on the right side for a nice clean pressed look.
Repeat with the front shoulder panels.
The shoulder panels are now sewn, pressed and ready for the facing. Using a seam gauge fold the seam allowances 1/2" towards the wrong side and press. As you may already know I have an obsession with "Wondertape". Karen and I used to buy it by the box. I use it for so many things. In this case, I'm using it to hold the shoulder panel facing in place on the wrong side when I top stitch on the right side.
If you don't know what "Wondertape" is (for some reason whenever I say the word I want to shout it out like Oprah when she would shout out the name of her guest.) then I'll quickly tell you. It is wash away double sided tape. Place the tape on top of the seam allowance, then place the shoulder panel facing on top of the seam allowance. Other options are to baste the panel in place or use pins. On the right side of the garment top stitch in the seam (stitch in the ditch) or next to the seam. I aligned my 1/8" marker on the presser foot along the seam and top stitched. Remove any baste stitches if used.
Repeat on the back.
Begin by stay-stitching the neck opening.
We have two collar options: Mandarin Collar or Tie String. I'm going to take you through both.
Press the bottom raw edge of the outer collar (upper) 3/8" towards the wrong side. Align the raw edges of the inner and outer collar and stitch along the short and long edges. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" and clip along the curve. This will help reduce bulk and give you a nice smooth finish.
Align the collar raw edges with the neck opening and markings. Pin and stitch. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Turn the collar towards the wrong side of the garment and smooth the edges. I used a dull pencil to do this but you can use a turning tool or a knitting needle, just don't use anything pointy and sharp.
Once again, I found another use for my "wondertape" (no they don't pay us to advertise, but they should). Included in each pattern you purchase is a lovely woven label. These labels will give the garment that professional touch and they can also serve as hooks to hang the garment (like the Nituna Jacket). I placed the tape along the seam and then placed the label on top. Sandwich the Figgy's label between the blouse and the collar and be sure the seam allowance is tucked inside.
Pin and top stitch. Done, unless your hosting a sew along and you need to show the alternative collar option. A little seam ripping and then we'll be ready.
TIE STRING COLLAR
Yesterday I shared a wonderful "how to" link for making bias tape and if you read it you'll notice in my photo I cheated a little today. For good reason though! I love selvedge on Japanese fabric. Some of them are really unique and I really wanted to use this for the tie string, so I did. Press the bias tape in 1/2. Fold both sides in toward the center crease and press. I also folded and pressed mine once more to ensure a nice clean crease.
Turn the garment wrong side out, open the bias tape and align the right side of the bias tape raw edge and the wrong side of the blouse. Leave an equal amount of tie string hanging off each end of the neck slit. Pin and stitch. Use the same method as the mandarin collar mentioned above to attach the label.
Fold the tape in half wrong sides together, press and top stitch from one end to the other. Tie each tie string end in a small decorative knot.
The last thing I did was sew a little bar tack at the bottom of the neck slit. I did this for extra security. A backstitch should suffice but I wanted just a little more security for the times when Ofelia wants to pull her blouse on herself toddler style.
Look, it's almost a shirt!
It's beginning to rain now which is perfect timing because day two is complete. Well Done!
See you tomorrow to finish our Ayashe blouse!
ps. Did you happen to catch Daniela's comment yesterday? She's got something gorgeous to show us very soon and you will see she gave us a small piece of her design wisdom.